Travel, mishap, and adventure in a beautiful and bizarre world.

Sunday, 18 January 2015

One of the World's Highest Bridges: Miallu Viaduct

I know, I know. Another stupid bridge. Yes, I want you to go see a bridge. Actually, this bridge is pretty awesome. And besides the bridge itself, there are lots of other great things to see around this area, including the town of Miallu and the Tarn Gorges. This is the Miallu Viaduct.

First of all, let's clear up the pronunciation difficulties. It is not MEE-ow Viaduct. It is not The Viaduct of Cats. It's also not the mee-AH-loo Viaduct. If you tell your friends in the French town of Servian that you are going to visit the mee-AH-loo Viaduct, they will just look at you quizzically and wonder where you learned your (bad) French. Trust me, I've done that before. Pronounce it: mey-AU.
Okay. With that out of the way...
The Miallu Viaduct is a 394,000,000-Euro bridge that spans the valley of the River Tarn in southern France. It was built so people living on one side of the valley could get to work in places like Clermont-Ferrand (on the other side) more quickly. It bypasses Miallu completely, so why it's called the Miallu Viaduct I have no idea. Before the bridge was constructed, everyone had to drive into the valley and back up the other side, causing traffic jams in the middle. (It must have been a really annoying problem if they spent almost 400 million euros on it.)
You won't get this cool a view... unless you take a helicopter. Photo credits to www.wikipedia.org
 Anyway, this bridge is a fabulous architectural wonder. If you're less than a couple hours away from it, I would highly recommend going there. But the question I'm answering is "Is it better to to view the views from on top of the Miallu Viaduct, or drive into the valley and see the viaduct, but not be able to look down into the valley?"
The answer is surprising, but not once you've driven over the viaduct.

First, let's define where the Viaduct actually is. The nearest large city is Montpellier, which it is about an hour drive north of. I could say it's in the centre of southern France, if that helps.
*note* There is currently construction about 20 minutes from the viaduct on the A75.

My Experience
The awesome view of the viaduct in the bottom of
the Miallu Valley.
When I visited the Miallu Viaduct with my family, we incorporated it into a day trip with a visit to the Tarn gorges and the nearby towns. Coming from the south, we drove along the E11 and turned off at the visitor centre to hang out and get some cool posters. After that, we drove into the valley on the D41A (this will make more sense when you see the map) and were able to get some good views of the viaduct. There's a really nice viewpoint right at the bottom of the valley where you can pull over and get out of your car, looking up at the bridge. After that, we drove back up the other side, on the D41. We passed Miallu and followed the D809 along the banks of the river. There are several nice towns along here; Aguessac, Compeyre, La Cresse, Rivière-sur-Tarn, Le Rozier, Les Vignes, and others. (By the way, if you stop in Les Vignes, there's a restaurant with a beautiful view over the river... just don't order the chèvre salad.) After having lunch in Les Vignes, we drove around the Tarn Gorges. There are several great viewpoints, and if you can stomach the bumpy road, there's much beauty to be discovered in this region of France. On the way back, we got out of Miallu via the D911 instead of the D41. This road took us a few minutes north until we found a complicated traffic circle that got us onto the A75, going south. (It's hard to find other roads that get you onto this highway, most of them go under the viaduct.) This is where we went through the toll booth and got onto the viaduct.
Here's a map of the Miallu area. NOTE: Highways D992 and the E11 (aka big orange line) do not intersect
(the D992 goes under the viaduct). Also, the D911 and E11 meet up farther north.  

MY AMAZING JOURNEY ACROSS THE VIADUCT...
Was surprisingly dumb. Well, no. It felt cool, but all you can see are the 3m- tall plastic barriers and the huge suspension lines as you pass under them. Had I not known that the viaduct existed, I would have been thinking, "oh hey why'd they stick these stupid poles here on this random stretch of highway...?" The change is almost unnoticeable.

So to answer your question... By all means, driving into the valley is the best way to see the viaduct.  It also gives you a great opportunity to discover the Tarn Gorges, instead of just driving over the viaduct, past the town of Miallu, then turning around and going back. Actually, don't even bother with the bridge unless you have to. However, if you are planning a trip to the South of France, you might want to keep reading for some more tips about how to spend your day at the viaduct.
If you turn around and look out the back of the car window
after crossing the viaduct, this is what you'll see.

My Advice
1a) If you are staying close to the Miallu Viaduct: Devote one day just to exploring the valley and the viaduct, and come back for a more thorough trip around the Tarn Gorges.
1b) If you aren't staying close to the Miallu Viaduct: Get up early, and spend the day exploring the viaduct, the Tarn Gorges, and the surrounding towns and villages.
2) Going into the valley is essential, going over the bridge is not. It's fascinating to go into the valley where you'll be able to really appreciate the huge viaduct. If you're in a rush to get back to the town you're staying in and want to say you've been on the bridge, you can go over, but there will be nothing to see except at the very end after you've crossed the viaduct (see picture at left).
3) Make sure you go to the visitor centre (if you want to buy that overpriced plastic Miallu Viaduct placemat on your wish list!). Actually, most of the things in the visitor centre are really nice, and you can look at models of the viaduct and watch a short movie about how it was built. It's a great learning experience, a lookout gives you great views of the viaduct, and most importantly... there are bathrooms.
Drive up one side of the Tarn Gorges for this spectacular view. 
4) Visit the towns! In France, it's not enough to be a tourist; you have to immerse yourself in the French lifestyle and culture. Go for a swim in the Tarn Gorges, eat at a restaurant beside the river, go on a hike, and talk with the locals (we got an awesome beach ball from a restaurant owner in Les Vignes). Don't just go to the Miallu area to see a big bridge, you have to enjoy it.
5) Don't stress over food. Bring breakfast in the car, and when you get to the Tarn gorges, park your car where there's a nice view and eat your squassionts (squashed croissants, a reference to my time in Paris). It gets very hot in the summer, so bring along LOTS of water. For lunch, eat at one of the local towns along the gorges. For dinner, buy a baguette (or whatever) from a café and eat it in the car.

Well, I hope this helps you if you ever find yourself in the south of France with a day to spare. And if it wasn't useful at all and you're never going to go see the viaduct, well, you just read three pages of me ranting about overpriced placemats in the visitor centre. Which is okay, too.

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